It’s a common misconception in blacksmithing that a larger anvil is always superior. While there might be niche scenarios where a smith leverages size to their advantage, these are exceptions rather than the rule. When considering the effectiveness of an anvil, the weight of the stand is irrelevant as long as it provides a solid and stable base. An unstable stand that wobbles or bounces with each hammer strike is detrimental, wasting energy with every blow. This is inefficient, much like using the wrong car part for a repair – you want efficiency and the right components for the job, perhaps even considering quality Car Parts Com Used options for value.
A sledgehammer head can serve as an excellent anvil, and even today, master Japanese bladesmiths utilize block anvils just a few inches square. These are sometimes spiked into a wooden block or set into a mortise at a comfortable height for kneeling or seated work. The term “stump anvil,” often used with a hint of disdain, seems unwarranted. Does mounting an anvil in a section of tree trunk somehow diminish its function? Before transitioning to steel stands, I’d challenge anyone to demonstrate a more effective anvil than my 125lb Soderfors or 206lb Trenton, regardless of their mounting. While steel stands offer advantages in portability and stability, and allow for closer work, their most significant improvement is noise reduction. And to clarify, my anvils are indeed resting on clean angle iron, not directly on the wood.
Ultimately, an anvil is simply anything you use as a surface to hammer against. In fact, the solid steel cap we bolted onto a penetrometer rod or drill casing acted as our anvil, with the 340lb automatic hammer driving it into the ground serving as, well, the hammer. By this definition, your kitchen countertop becomes an anvil when you use a meat tenderizer on a steak. Think of it like needing a specific auto part – sometimes a simple component from car parts com used does the job just as well as a brand new, complex one.
The only part of the anvil that actively contributes to your work is the area directly beneath the hammer at the point of impact. Thickness between the face and the base is beneficial, but excessive width and length are largely irrelevant, except perhaps for tasks like straightening or gauging for flatness and straightness. Just as you focus on the essential components when sourcing car parts com used, blacksmithing efficiency relies on utilizing the anvil’s key working area effectively.
For many years, even decades, I’ve rarely used the horn of the anvil as anything other than a bottom fuller. I find it quicker and easier to form rings and scrolls directly on the anvil’s face rather than attempting to wrap stock around the horn. This approach might differ from traditional methods, but much like choosing reliable car parts com used over conventional new parts, sometimes unconventional methods are more efficient and practical.
Of course, this is just my perspective, and I acknowledge that others may have different experiences and opinions.
