Replacing a clutch is a significant repair for any car enthusiast. When I faced this task on my own vehicle, the first question that came to mind was selecting the right clutch and flywheel. Since I wasn’t planning on drastically increasing the engine’s power, an aggressive racing clutch wasn’t necessary. Fortunately, I found a great deal online for a used ACT Streetlite Flywheel and Exedy Stage 1 Organic Clutch with low mileage, saving a considerable amount on these essential Transmission Car Parts.
To begin the clutch replacement, removing the transmission was the first major step. This process involved detaching the exhaust system, driveshaft, and transmission crossmember. Separating the transmission from the engine proved to be a bit challenging, requiring some effort to carefully pry them apart. Once disconnected, I used a jack to safely lower and remove the transmission from under the car.
Upon inspecting the removed transmission, a Subaru 5-speed model, the first issue I noticed was the severely worn throwout bearing. It felt rough, was filled with grime, and exhibited stiffness in its movement. After removing the pressure plate, I examined the clutch disc and flywheel. While the flywheel appeared to be in acceptable condition, the pressure plate showed signs of heat damage, indicating wear and tear on these crucial transmission car parts.
Further inspection of the transmission revealed a significant oil leak originating from the shifter rod seal. Consulting the factory service manual for my car, I researched the procedure for replacing this seal. The manual indicated that removing the transmission extension and center differential housing would be necessary. Without hesitation, I proceeded to disassemble these components to address the leak in this vital transmission car part.
Once inside, the internal condition of the transmission was surprisingly impressive for a unit with 205,000 miles. There were no visible metal shavings or broken components, a testament to the durability of these transmission car parts.
However, the leaking shifter rod seal had caused a secondary issue. Moisture had entered the transmission, leading to rust formation on the main shaft rear plate, located adjacent to the seal. This discovery reinforced the importance of addressing even seemingly minor leaks promptly to prevent more significant damage to transmission car parts.
To rectify the rust on the main shaft rear plate, I carefully hand-sanded it to remove the corrosion. It was crucial to avoid excessive sanding, as the thickness of this transmission car part is critical. This plate functions as a spacer, supporting the transmission main shaft extension. It’s available in 5.50mm and 5.63mm thicknesses to accommodate slight variations in bearing protrusion from the main transmission case. Maintaining the correct thickness of this transmission car part is essential for proper transmission function.
After reinstalling the cleaned main shaft rear plate and thoroughly cleaning the transmission internals, I installed the new shifter rod seal and began reassembling the transmission case. While tightening the extension case bolts to the specified torque, my 3/8″ torque wrench unfortunately broke, snapping one of the longer bolts. This mishap necessitated disassembling the case again to extract the broken bolt, turning what was already a late-night repair into an even longer one.
Lacking a clutch alignment tool initially, I ordered one online, which arrived a couple of days later. With the correct tool in hand, installing the new clutch and flywheel became straightforward. These new transmission car parts were essential for restoring proper vehicle operation.
Stay tuned for the next installment, where I will detail the brake work, including ABS removal and rotor upgrades. Understanding transmission car parts and performing regular maintenance are key to ensuring the longevity and performance of your vehicle. Regular checks and timely repairs, like replacing a worn shifter rod seal, can prevent more extensive and costly damage down the line.
